Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 1 Parts The parts are layed out on the cruise ship carpet. (I had intended to build this while on the cruise, but didn't bring any balsa filler!) The parts were all of good quality, typical of the Dr. Zooch kits. Here's a dry fit of the upper section and the pointy Jupiter nose cone. In the small bag are ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 2 Prep The nose cone tip didn't last long. I'll have to build the point back up. I used Carpenter's Wood Filler straight from the tub without thinning. With the straight CWF it dries harder and stronger. It takes more effort to sand, but the new point will be much stronger than the original balsa. All ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 3 Prep The nose cone tip has been built up and sanded smooth. In Step 2 you are told to paint the upper tubes and adapter white. I decided to go ahead and fill the nose cone, too. Here's all four parts joined after filling and primer sanding.
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 4 Spider Beams The T-20 engine mount tube is marked for the eight spider beams. The spider beams support the fuel tank tubes to be rolled from card stock. In the picture the spider beam lines are extended down the tube with a aluminum angle guide. Pay close attention to the centering ring positions, they are a ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 5 Rolling S-1 Tanks These tanks can take some practice to get right. You are only given four white tanks in the kit, I drew up extras from a sheet of white 110 lb. card stock. Simply draw up some boxes that are 2 9/16" wide X 5 1/4" tall. It's hard to see the light pencil lines unless the picture is enlarged. The kit ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 6 Rolling S-1 Tanks
Rolling the S-1 tanks will take a bit of explanation.
Start a pot of water boiling in a pan. After it boils, lower the heat to a low, slow boil. You want the water to steam.
Start with a larger 1/2" dowel. You'll need a soft surface to pre-form the rolls. Just like I'd do ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 7 S-1 Tanks
The only way I've been able to get a good start on the tubes is to push and hold in the starting side with a straightedge.
Push the inside edge down, start the roll and remove the straightedge.
Use both hands to hold the inside edge tight until the turned wrap holds them in ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 9 Engine Block Even though you are told to install the engine block (CR205W) in the next step, I though it might be easier to do it now. With the engine block resting against the top bend of the engine hook, it is just over 4" from the top of the tube. The dowel is marked to show how deep the block will be ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 10 S-1 Stage Here the thrust structure tube is glued over the engine mount centering rings. The rear of the tube is glued flush with the rear ring. I decided to add white glue to the inside edge of the lower ring then slide the tube down from the top. This glues the tube to the lower ring. I applied a fillet ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 11 S-1 Tank Placement The rolled tanks are glued into place. I sanded off a little of the overlapped card stock from the one black tank that'll sit against the engine hook. The thickness of the engine hook will raise that one tank tube higher than the others. Removing a little card stock from the back will set in the ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 12 S-1 Tubes With all the tubes in place I wanted to make all the tops were in line before gluing them in place against the top centering ring. Card stock was wrapped around the tubes and rubber bands were "lightly" bound over the wrap. Note I said "lightly" - you don't want the rubber band pressure to indent ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 13 Fairing In Step 6, the CR2055F centering ring is slid down the top of the motor mount tube and a fillet is applied. Because of an earlier fillet, my 2055 ring didn't go all the way down flat on the top centering ring. No problem, it'll be covered by the T55 body tube. With the T55 S-IV body tube glued in ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 14 Fairing The dried fairing was slipped down the body tube and left above the upper centering ring. Glue was applied to the upper edge of the ring and the fairing was slid down into the glue. Here's the upper body up to this point. The white / black masking was done with Scotch clear tape.
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 15 Body Wraps In Step 8, you are told to: "Apply the thrust structure paper wrap starting at a point where a white tanks meets a black tank." After a coat of spray adhesive, the wrap was set in place. Instead of starting at the wrap edge, I set one of the fin positioning lines on the wrap between and centered ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 16 Fin Shaping Those "Stub" fins are narrow! The direction of the balsa grain doesn't help sanding very much. This picture shows a side view of the stub fin, the finished shape is on the left. The kit instructions don't give much information about the actual shape of the fin. I looked at pictures of the finished ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 17 Fin Priming The fins grain has been filled with Carpenter's Wood Filler and sanded smooth. Here's the fins after spraying with gray primer. They are standing up on a strip of masking tape, with the sticky side up. With the root edge stuck down, the primer and color coats can't get on the root edge. You are ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 18 Nozzles I decided to jump ahead and work on the nozzles. They are cut out from a 110 lb. card stock pattern sheet. There is a larger "inner band" and a smaller band. The smaller band slips over the top and down to the bottom of the inner band. I formed the small bells using a dowel in the soft heel of my ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 19 Nozzle Bands After trimming off the overhang, I did have to sand the bottom of the nozzle bands flat and smooth. To make a smoother edge of the nozzle, I hardened it up a bit. I set a small drop of thin CA on my cardboard cutting board. I didn't want the drop to be "tall" but more like a low puddle. The edge ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 20 NozzlesAfter the glue has dried on the start of the Popielium band you can begin wrapping the line. Using a toothpick, white glue is applied down the line just 3/4" at a time. When the glue starts to set up, place the glued part of the line down. Use your toothpick tip to straighten it out as you go. When ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 21 Fairings Here's a tank fairing cut from the pattern sheet in the kit. While these are certainly usable as is, I wanted to get a better fit and a longer wrap around and to the center of the tanks. Please note: This is not a complaint about the kit, every build will be just a little different. All shrouds ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 22 Fairings Before any glue was used, I slightly rounded the fairing by pressing it into the heel of my hand with a dowel. Glue was applied to the back of the fairing piece, just around the edges. Long tweezers were used to set it in place. To be sure the angle was right, the extra fin was set onto the ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1SA-5 Build Part 23 Fairings Earlier I mentioned that I cut the new fairings a little wide. The widest part of the bottom overhung the body tube by a slight bit. After all had dried, I had to go back and carefully trim off the overhang with a sharp razor blade. After trimming off the excess, I didn't have as good a color ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 24 Fin Masking To mask the fins, set them in place on the lower tube with the extended fin tip on the fairing. Using the color separation lines printed on the lower wrap, extend your tape straight across the fin. Here I'm laying Scotch tape down. It's my preferred masking material. The angle of the shot makes it ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 25 Bottom Plate From Step 9B Subsection A - Amendment WB1074: The S-1 bottom plate is cut out and fitted. I cut out the "Engine Cut-Out" hole and test fitted it on a scrap piece of BT-20 before gluing it on the bottom centering ring. It's easier getting a good fit off the model before committing it with glue. ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 26 Fin Gluing The larger fins are glued on the four printed lines. The stub fins center between those. If you masked the root edge before painting you should have a strong enough bond without cutting through the lower wrap. I didn't think about the inside fin overhang on the root edges. I'll have to touch that ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 27 Details Before cutting any of the dowel pieces, you might want to seal the wood. I used two coats of varnish, rubbed on with a paper towel. Lightly sand between coats. The sealed dowel "ducts" will look much smoother when the paint is applied. I'd recommend sealing and sanding everything in one piece ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 28 Details The S-IV Ullage Motors are angled at 30 degrees. You should sand the end of a dowel to 30 degrees before cutting it to the 1/8" length. I printed an online protractor. You can find one HERE The dowel was set parallel to the bottom of the protractor base line on the print. My sanding block was set ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 29 F.G.P Tips Step 9-A-prime: F.G.P. (Funky Glue Putty) I've never had much luck making the Funky Glue Putty for the Zooch kits. But, like everything else, you usually get better results if you keep trying! I don't have the recommended yellow glue, so I'll give it a try with white glue. In the first attempts, I ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 30 Lower LH2 Ducts The instructions don't give enough information about placement of the lower three LH2 ducts. You only make three dowels, 4 3/8" long. But it seems there are four places the duct dowels could go - between the tanks, above the stub fins. I checked the Meatball rocketry site again and found which ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 31 Upper LH2 Ducts Read the Scale mistake note below before doing what I did! I tried to sand an angle to the bottom of the retro rockets to match the top end of the lower LH 2 ducts. Be careful how much you sand, don't make them too short like I did. I got the angle as close as I could. I'll fill the gap with white ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 32 S-IV Motors The S-IV motors are very small. You'll need tweezers to help get them into position. The instructions don't specify a color. When at the Meatball Rocketry site I saw they were red and white. Working this small, I decided to just go with the red. According to the pictures on the Meatball Rocketry ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 33 Details I explained earlier about my mistake on the retro rocket positions. These steps were done before I realized the error. I'm using a favorite glue transfer tool, the tip of a toothpick. A drop of glue was set on the top of the lower LH2 duct and at the underside of the centering ring and fairing ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build part 34 Nozzles Some of the silver paint was sanded off the bottom of the nozzles for a better glue bond. The inside of the nozzle bell was blackened in with a Sharpie pen. This is much easier than masking and spraying. After the outsides of the nozzles were painted and dried there wasn't any bleeding through of ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Post 35 Antenna This is the back of an antenna panel showing the glue placement. The instructions show the panels cut apart, but I kept them in one piece for easier gluing. The antenna panels in place. I alternated the four panels, yellow squares centered, then the high yellow square panels. The two panels with ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 36 Nozzles I inserted an engine casing when gluing the nozzles to the bottom plate. There isn't much clearance around the nozzle bells and the engine. With the casing in place, it's a little easier to visualize and space out the nozzles evenly. Here I've added internal fillets inside each bell and bottom ...
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Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 37 Launch Lugs I decided not to make eight of the standoffs. After making the first one, seven more would be a lot of work. It's do-able, but at this point I really wanted to finish up the model. The lug and standoff were filled with CWF and sanded smooth. A coat of primer followed and sanding with 400 grit. The ...
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