Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 1 Parts This is the XL version of the original BT-20 Estes Hi Flier. I understand the smaller Hi-Flier is a best seller for Estes. It makes great sense for Estes to produce the upscale. A standard three fin, nose cone design built around the strong BT-60 tube. All parts are high quality including an 18" ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 2, Engine Mount I cut off the finger tab extension. I hate these things, especially when they extend beyond the trailing ends of the fins. These fins don't go beyond the end of the main air frame tube. I'm building two Hi-Flier XLs at the same time. On the left is the engine hook tab before, on the right after ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 3, Engine Mount Gussets Here's the finished mount with the upper ring down and over the top bend of the engine hook. As it is it's plenty strong for C11, D12 and E9 engines. I like my mounts a bit more robust. Gussets will be added. I used some strips left over from the balsa fin sheets. The leftover edge scraps are long ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 4, Making A Baffle The kit includes a long 3" red coupler. Why not put it to better use and make a baffle out of it? To start, sand the ends flat. Coupler and tube ends are cut at a slight angle. For a slightly wider gluing edge, sand the ends flat with 220 grit on a block. I have some heavy frame mat board about ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 5, Making A Baffle A good sharp scissors should be able to cut around the pencil line traced earlier. Cut just outside the pencil circle. The excess will be sanded off even with the outside of the coupler later on. Using the rotary punch, holes were made in the upper (left) and lower (right side) ring. Look close ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 6, Making A BaffleI'll be adding a small reinforcement disk over the underside of the upper disk. This does two things - It protects and covers the Kevlar line from the ejection charge and reinforces the baffle disk. A notch was cut into the disk so it will glue flat over the Kevlar line. Here's how the upper disk ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 7, Making A Baffle You can make an internal fillet by applying a line of glue just inside the edge of the coupler. Then apply a second bead of glue on the upper edge. TIP: While the glue is still wet, set the disk on the end of the coupler and turn the disk . This smooths out the glue bead inside the coupler edge. ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 8, Tube Seam Filling More first timer tips: On the forums I see some seam filling with a lot of filler being used. Too much filler and you'll spend too much time trying to remove it. Sometimes the seams are narrow and hard to see. Use a fine point pencil and run it down the seams for a high contrast guideline. Dip an ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 9, Fin Grain Filling Brush on thinned CWF with the grain, then against the grain. Brushing with the grain first get the filler into the grain pores. Then brushing against the grain forces the filler in and removes the excess. There will be brush strokes when the filler goes on and after it dries. Here I'm sanding down ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 10, Engine Mount Glue Position First up - an apology to "Anonymous". He posted a comment about papering fins. On my comments page, the buttons are close together and I inadvertently hit the delete button. His comment is gone! Anonymous, please add your comment back and I will post and respond to it. ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 11, Baffle Gluing Before gluing in the coupler, roll over the lip of the body tube. The small turned over edge can slow down the coupler slide. When the top and bottom of the baffle ends were sanded even with the sides of the red coupler, the outside diameter was taken down a bit. Sometimes kit provided couplers ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 12, Tube Butt Joint Fill The tube joint is hit with a brushing of CWF. After it dries the seam joint is sanded with 220 grit on a block. Look close at the joint and you can see some of the body tube is sanded and rough. The rough, raised body tube edges will have to be hardened and sanded again. Medium CA glue is set on ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 13, Fin Primer Fill and Sand The fins were stuck to a cardboard scrap for primer/filler spraying. There are six fins here, I'm building two Hi Flier XL kits. Spray one side, let dry. Flip the fins over and spray the other side. Don't miss spraying the leading, outside and trailing edges. Enlarge the picture and you can see ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 14, Fin Gluing and Paint Prep Even after filling the nose cone seams with medium CA, there were still some high areas. In the inset picture: With the nose in the tube, run your fingers over the shoulder lip and you can feel the high spots. The high areas were marked with a pencil and sanded down to be closer to the outside ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 15, Sanding and Touchups After the single coat of Duplicolor primer/filler I noticed a glue smear. This was easily sanded smooth. The primer/filler filled in the raised sides of the glue area. Right above the glue area is a tube seam. You can see how the primer is left in the rut, the last bit the CWF didn't quite fill. ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 16, Red Paint The rocket is to be spray painted red and black, the decals add the third color trim. I could have sprayed the model (and fins) an overall red but simply sprayed the tube and over the fillet areas. The black should easily cover the white and red paint after masking off the red. Always spray light ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 18, Second Build Mask - OOPS! The first HiFlier XL paint mask went well. The tape pulled off clean and left a sharp mask line at the root edges. My last can of Rusto 2X Gloss Black was running low and I was due to replace the spray cap button. I pulled the old cap, it was starting to spray unevenly. A new nozzle was set on the ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 17, Mask and Black Fins Here's the mask for all fins to be painted gloss black. Scotch tape strips went down first at the root edges, masking tape filled in the areas between the fins. A plastic grocery bag is slipped over the top and taped to the body above the fins. Here's the first HiFlier after the tape was pulled. ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 19, Decals Part A - TIPSI read forum posts about problems applying water-slide decals. Vendors use different suppliers for their decal printing. Some can be hard to transfer. I've been using water slides since I was 6 years old, putting together my first plastic model. Experience does help - I'll try to offer a few tips. ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 20, Decals Part B - TIPS After the surface is wetted, slide about 1/4" of the decal off the backing paper. On this model, the rear edge placement is the most critical. Leaving the decal on the backing paper, the rear edge was visually spaced on the trailing edge cut. When I was happy with the position, the backing paper ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 21, Paint Ends and Edges Here's a final touch for any finishing obsessed builders. The ends of the body tubes usually end up unpainted, with white edges. This body tube was painted with Rusto Red Metallic. The paint is a little transparent, not much pigment. I was afraid the metallic paint wouldn't give very good coverage ...
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Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Finished A large, clean, no-frills 3FNC rocket. I do like the looks of the bigger version of the HiFlier. The small BT-20 HiFlier reminds me of old school 18mm minimum diameter models like the OOP Sky Hook. The Rustoleum Metallic Red is a subtle upgrade but really ...
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