Published: | 2010-11-13 |
Diameter: | 2.20 inches |
Length: | 46.00 inches |
Manufacturer: | Public Missiles |
Style: | Sport |
The Callisto was straight forward and easy to build. If you are looking for a "quick-build" model then the Callisto is not your choice, that is, if you use epoxy as recommended. Take your time and you will find that this kit is very satisfying.
All the parts were cut precisely
and fit very well. The airframe is PML's phenolic tubing which is very rigid.
The fins are PML's G-10 fiberglass. I found this material easy to work with,
however, take care when rounding the leading and trailing edges and be sure to
rough the entire surface at all bonding joints before painting. The slotted
airframe made fin alignment a breeze and ensures a very strong structure. I was
surprised not to find an "eye" screw for attaching the shock cord to
the nose cone but that was remedied with a quick stop at a local hardware
store. Another nice feature, I have not experienced before, is the piston
ejection system. This eliminates the need for recovery wadding. This eliminates
the need for recovery wadding. The kit uses a PML's Dura-Chute parachute, which
is high quality rip-stop nylon with a spill hole.
Finishing the model offered some challenges. First, the phenolic tubing has fairly deep grooves that need to be filled if you are going for a smooth finish. I used a ready mix, fast drying spackle which worked nicely. I then used Plasti-Kote primer from a local automotive store. This is a thicker sandable primer which works well in filling in the imperfections on the model. One of the most annoying imperfections was in the plastic nose cone. There were mold grooves along both sides that took a lot of primer to finally fill in. After priming and sanding, I chose automotive lacquer paint for my colors. The kit came with a single decal sporting the word "Callisto" in red with black outline. I wasn't interested in decal from the beginning since the color scheme I chose was blue and gold.
I was a bit disappointed that the model didn't come with a motor stop to prevent the motor from dislodging with the ejection charge. I have come to learn that this is fairly common. None the less, I added hardware to allow me to mount a clip to prevent the motor from kicking out. I used "T" Nuts on both sides, mounted and epoxied to the rear centering ring. Then I was able to screw in two small clips that slide over the edge of RMS or Single-Use Motors.
Ready to fly. I chose the Aerotech RMS - 29/40-120 Reloadable Motor System. I was pleased to find that it allowed me to choose from several "F" and "G" power motor reloads. In addition, it does not require a thrust-ring since it has a small flange to prevent the motor from going through the motor mount tube. I found the best price for Aerotech motors at Hobby L'inc.
I flew it first on a Darkstar F62-6 since I was nervous using my RMS motor for the first time. Perfect flight with ejection just at the back portion of apogee. This built nerve for a F52-5. This time ejection occurred 1-2 seconds after apogee, but again a beautiful flight and recovery. Impressive! I'm hooked!
Who knew that this rocket would become my Level 1 certification kit? Well, when money ran low and time ran out, the Callisto became the rocket of choice for my Level 1 certification. I really wanted something heavier. But at NARAM-40, she was loaded up with a H128-Medium and successfully turned in a qualifying Level 1 certification flight. Again, proving the sturdiness and versatility of this kit.
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S.O. (June 1, 2000)