Construction

K & S does a very detailed job on providing instructions. The only drawback is from the technical side, the instructions come on a CD.  But. I had no problems with the files provided and printed them for my own use during assembly and to provide for a good place for notes or points of modfification.

Going into a kit like this it would be a good idea to have had at least some experience with the techniques involved in building a high power rocket kit.  If you are not familiar with them, K & S has done a good job of detailing the processes with text and pictures (lots of them) involved in the assembly.  Scott is also very personable and supports his products. He receives an A+ from me when it comes to customer service.

I started by inspecting the parts and components then printing the instructions.  Then I read the instructions completely before beginning assembly (probably the biggest mistake newcomers make going into a high power build is to start without having read all the instructions).

Onward!  Smell the epoxy!

The instructions are well thought out and detailed with plenty of photos - did I mention 27 pages worth?! There are only a few modifications to the build that I would recommend to the newcomer in high power rocketry - or at least a few things to point out to them before hand.  I will footnote some of these modifications in lieu of documenting the entire build here.

The beginning of the assembly will start with marking and cutting the fin slots on the booster.

1. Fin slots. You will have to cut your own slots in the BT. If you haven't done this before be careful, cut away from your body or parallel to it, use a small piece of angle as a guide, use a sharp hobby/olfa knife, repeat use a sharp knife and be patient. This will take a few passes but is simple. If you are a newbie...This is probably the hardest part of the build you will encounter.

(Regarding the fins themselves later...I choose not to use the dowels on the fins just a personal preference but I digress!)

After slots are cut you will start assembling the motor tube.  Couple things here: make sure you always scuff all paper components to assist your adhesives this may even include removing the outer layer and dry fit all componentes and check positioning before epoxy app.  I tend to use 5 minute epoxies on all my builds as I work very quickly.  I do not recommend this to most folks.  Give yourself the time and go with a slower set.

2. Retention. Determine your motor retention means at the beginning of the build and make the modifications before you insert your mmt into the booster. I use thread inserts for #10 hardware.  Some prefer to add Aeropack reatiners but just the good old fashioned "Kaplow" clone works fine for me.

3. The rail buttons. Do not install the rail buttons to the airframe until after you have done your finish/paint. Pre drill them as instructed and insert a small mandrel or toothpick in the holes prior to finishing.

Next you will be prompted for fin attachment.  The instructions here are well thought out and detailed with many pictures.  Take your time and this will be a piece of cake. 

Next will be the tube coupler.  Instructions here are fine and simple.  This is where my hardware will differ from that supplied in the kit.  I use Ubolts exclusively in my High Power builds on my bulkplates. 

*Remember*  This is a zipperless design, the instructions will not prompt you to drill holes in case you decide to use motor ejection at all or for backup.  After the epoxy set, I drilled 6- .250" holes to allow for ejection gas to seperate the booster as a backup to my electronics.

4. The Ebay. The supplied eye bolts will work well for this kit but I opt for U bolts again. As the instructions state, know is the time to at least plan on your terminal types and charge canisters. The ebay assembly is a snap. When you go to put your inserts in for the bolts follow the instructions. I deviated from the instructions and flipped the orientation for redundancy and personal preference again.  If you decide to do so, do not pull or push the spikes completely through the coupler tube. Be careful not to get epoxy in the threads. You will have to file a little bit off when complete. Make sure you make some reference lines on the inside of the tubes and on the couplers for re assembly. Again, you will have some holes and mounts that you will want to insert toothpicks or whatever in to keep the paint out while finishing.  I drilled a .50" hole centered for the switch to be added later and 2- .250" vents for the altimeter.

I personally use 2 pole rotary style switches purchased from Missile Works (www.missileworks.com).  I use standard terminal type blocks purchased from one of my electrical distributors, but can be found at Radio Shack or the like.  I use charge canisters  from Aerocon Systems (www.aeroconsystems.com) and make my own e matches out of supplies from Quickburst (www.quickburst.net)

The nosecone. This is another thing that may be new to someone out there. Follow the instructions! Do not use the OEM attachment point on a nosecone! The instructions lay out a good technique for supplying a solid anchor point.  This is where I did use the supplied eyebolt, I just added a tack weld to prevent failure of the eyelet.

If you made it this far... The instructions will steer you towards paint prep and finishing then onto final assembly.

The portion of the instructions for final assembly of the harnesses and their attachment is a fine thought out progression detailed with pictures.  These components are nice and after building this kit I am sure to buy recovery items in the future from K & S.

All in all construction, instructions and components provided.... I give this a solid, and I mean solid, 4.75.  The only reason I do not go a 5?  Addressing some of the potential issues as detailed above in the instructions for someone newer to this type of build.